[Korean Tteokbokki Series – Part 2]
The History of Tteokbokki: A Timeless Korean Favorite
The history of tteokbokki stretches back much further than many people realize. In the historical Korean records known as Seungjeongwon Ilgi, there’s a mention that King Yeongjo’s mother, Lady Sukbin Choi, was fond of “obyeong” (熬餠), a dish of rice cakes fried in oil. Some Korean dictionaries even translate obyeong simply as “tteokbokki.” However, other historical texts such as Dongguk Sesigi describe obyeong more as a type of floral pancake or a fried Chinese-style pastry, making it difficult to say with certainty that ancient obyeong was exactly the same as today’s tteokbokki.
During the late Joseon Dynasty, cookbooks like Gyugonyoram and Siui Jeonseo featured recipes for early forms of tteokbokki. These versions were seasoned with soy sauce and included meat and vegetables, indicating that tteokbokki at the time was considered a high-end dish for the nobility. Far from the spicy street food we know today, this soy sauce–based tteokbokki was luxurious and savory. Nowadays, what we call “Gungjung Tteokbokki” (Royal Court Tteokbokki) carries on that tradition, often appearing in refined Korean restaurants or as a side dish at Korean fine dining establishments.
There is a theory that soy sauce–based tteokbokki originated from the Papyung Yoon family’s cuisine. It is said that they initially made a savory beef stew seasoned with their rich, homemade soy sauce and later added rice cakes, gradually evolving into what we now recognize as tteokbokki. In fact, earlier terms like “tteokjjim” (steamed rice cakes) or “tteokjapchae” (rice cake stir-fry) were used before the word “tteokbokki” officially appeared in the 1942 cookbook Joseon Yori Jepeop. Over time, this version came to be distinguished as “Gungjung Tteokbokki,” setting it apart from the spicy versions popular today.
Modern-style spicy tteokbokki, featuring a gochujang (red chili paste) base, emerged after the Korean War during the 1950s. Amid the postwar chaos and hunger, there was a growing demand for hearty, spicy, affordable foods. It was around this time that Maboknim, a food vendor in Sindang-dong, Seoul, is credited with inventing the famous gochujang tteokbokki. Using a coal-fired brazier and a humble aluminum pot, she simmered rice cakes, vegetables, gochujang, and a touch of black bean paste, creating the now-iconic flavor. The story goes that when a student once asked to add ramen noodles, instant noodle–style tteokbokki—jeukseok tteokbokki—was born.
Through word of mouth and media exposure, Sindang-dong tteokbokki quickly gained fame in the 1970s, becoming the ultimate snack for students. Later, as these students entered the workforce, tteokbokki followed them into adulthood, becoming a nostalgic yet accessible food for all ages.
In the 1990s, “cup tteokbokki” gained popularity—small servings of tteokbokki sold in paper cups at affordable prices. It was perfect for busy students, allowing them to enjoy their favorite snack on the go. Though less common today due to declining school populations and urban changes, cup tteokbokki remains a beloved memory for many who grew up in that era.
Recently, tteokbokki has found a new home in modern cafés, where it is often served alongside coffee and desserts. With the rise of food delivery apps, customers can now enjoy tteokbokki together with their drinks and sweets, minimizing delivery fees and wait times. As a result, tteokbokki is no longer limited to street stalls—it has evolved into a versatile, widely loved menu item for contemporary lifestyles.
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